Chasing the Komodo Dragon

On the morning of Monday, 11^th May, we were set for our four-day four-night boat trip which would take us to Flores (eventually), via Komodo and Rinca. We caught the public boat in the pouring rain back across to Lombok, where a bemo collected us, and took us on a three hour trip across the island stopping at various random points to pick up provisions for the trip.

These provisions, as far as I could tell, seemed to be a box full of super noodles, a sack containing three live chickens and finally, some children’s bicycles. The best bit about all this was that the sack of chickens was tied to the front of the bemo, onto the bumper! Luckily we didn’t shunt anything, as Lauren‘s thumb was already firmly poised over the RSPCA speed-dial button on her ’phone.

After breaking down for half an hour and another quick stop to drop off the bicycles, we eventually arrived at our Liner. Ship. Boat. Dinghy. The QE2 this was not. I’d have preferred our chances on my old fishing boat, Rhino. This boat however, did have a drop-loo, which Rhino did not.

All in all, there were 19 of us, including four crew, on board the Hasma Jaya 2. I dreaded to think what had happened to the Hasma Jaya 1. Anyway, after bagging a couple of mattresses on the sleeping deck, we settled down for a spot of lunch - noodles. The chickens would have to wait in the bag a bit longer!

Here is a video of our boat - click the play button at the bottom left of the picture, Dad.

We set off at about three thirty, and after about four hours, we arrived at Gili Boa, where we’d spend the night. Dinner was served to us en-route, and, I’m pleased to say, was delicious - though still no sign of the chickens.

The next morning, we were awoken at four thirty by the engines. The skipper had obviously decided it would be a good idea to get an early start! Luckily, there were no queues for the shower - as there was no shower. Breakfast was served at about six thirty (banana pancakes and some very strong coffee), and we arrived at our first destination, Gili Moyo, home to the Moyo Waterfall. We all gladly jumped overboard and swam for the island to take a look at the waterfall.

After an hour or so on dry land, we headed back to the boat, where lunch was awaiting us - at 10.30. (still no chicken). After lunch, it was onto the next stop, Santonda, home to a salt water lake and some fantastic views. After an hour snorkelling, we swam to shore to take a look.

We tried to spend as much time as possible on shore, as we knew that the next leg of the journey was an eighteen-hour beast. Looking forward to the prospect of motoring throughout the night, everyone turned in fairly early again (mainly because there was very little to do in the dark, and because the noise of the engine was terrible!). Sleep was fairly patchy up until about two in the morning, when everyone was woken fairly rapidly by some extremely lumpy seas! Luckily we managed to get through it without getting too wet, or sinking, but it was certainly fairly nerve-wracking!

The next morning the weather was a lot calmer, and after a quick breakfast, we swam to shore, through a swarm of fairly painful jellyfish, so we could climb up a hill. It took Lauren quite a while to pluck up the courage to swim to shore through the stingers! The view from the top was amazing, but the walk was bloody knackering!

The next stop was Komodo itself, where we went on two hour trek, but did not spot one dragon!

Thankfully we were told this this was not unusual, and that there were actually more Komodo Dragons on Rinca than on Komodo. Luckily, Rinca was where we were heading the next day.

After a bit more swimming and snorkelling and fishing,

the chickens were served at last (well worth the wait!). That night we were also treated to some shocking noise from a Swedish hippy chap called Jonas, who had brought his guitar along, and his girlfriend, who had brought her bongos. Definitely the worst double act since Renee and Renato.

On the fourth and final morning, we arrived at Rinca for a fairly tough two hour trek in the blazing sunshine. Happily it was not all in vain, as we managed to get a look at a good number of Komodo Dragons as well as water buffalo and monkeys.

That afternoon, we arrived in Flores, and headed straight for the bar before all heading our separate ways.

All in all, the trip was actually great fun, and although the boat fairly uncomfortable and the facilities pretty basic, it was a great way to see parts of Indonesia we’d otherwise have missed and we met some really nice people.